The public bath issue in Japan had first kindled my interest when I read an article in the Lexus car magazine in 2004 by Rolf Potts, who had traveled throughout Japan to sample the many types of public baths and learn more of the value that the baths had to the Japanese.  He emphasized that the natural hot springs (onsens) originated from the volcanic activity of the islands and that originally the Japanese would travel great distances to use these springs as baths for medicinal purposes.  The author emphasized that the baths were for soaking and not cleansing, and in fact it is imperative by custom to clean the body thoroughly before soaking in a public bath.

Over the years public baths in Japan had become a tradition that whole families enjoyed, and the mental benefits of relaxation and family bonding had become more important than the unknown physical benefits to the body.  Baths had been installed in hotels, which made them more available throughout Japan to all travelers, even in areas where the natural baths were not available.

In the Lexus article the author stated that public baths were a mixed-gender affair until Commodore Perry made it a moral issue, resulting in public baths for both sexes becoming less common in Japan.  This greatly surprised me as, although I was aware of the disparaging comments the Commodore had made about nude bathing of both sexes, in all the biographies I had read about the Commodore, no one had ever connected him with a change in Japanese culture in regard to public baths.  I have chatted with several Japanese/Americans about this issue reported in the Lexus magazine, but have not found any substantiation to the reporter’s claim.  The magazine editor did not immediately respond to my request for more documentation.

Although several years passed with no response to my request for more information of Commodore Perry’s involvement with public baths, and interesting follow-up occurred in 2012.  Mr.

Taizo Watanabe, who worked for Toyota and was Chair of the Center for International Exchange, read my story and was surprised I had received no reply.  He personally contacted the Lexus Company and I received a nice letter from the President of Lexus apologizing for the lack of response.  That was nice gesture; however, I received no additional information about the public bath issue and the influence of Commodore Perry on public bathing of both genders.

In July 2009, I traveled to Japan as part of the ManjiroWhitfield International Exchange program and had my first experience with Japanese public baths.  The major difference with public baths in Japan, compared to the western world and places like the Blue Lagoon in Iceland, is that in Japan public baths are conducted in the nude.  Although mixed gender bath houses exist in Japan, the major hotels have separate bath areas for males and females.

When I arrived at our first hotel in Matsushima, I learned that there was a bath in the hotel, and I was eager to experiment.  My roommate, Bhaird Campbell, was from Boston and was special assistant to the President of the Japan Society of Boston.  He spoke fluent Japanese and was extremely well-versed in Japanese customs.  He told me everything I needed to know about public baths in Japan, but then told me the most bone-chilling fact - that he was tired, was going to take a nap, and didn’t want to join me.  Whoa, I had to go on my own????!!!!  Well, I donned my yukata (informal summer kimono) and slippers, provided by the hotel, and with a small towel over my shoulder I headed to the bath area.  The towel is more like a washcloth, but 2-3 times as long as ours and used more for cleaning, not drying.  Drying towels are provided in the bath area.

I had investigated the location of the male bath area earlier and I knew there was no way to get there without walking through the lobby.  Taking the elevator to the first floor I stepped into the lobby and feeling totally nude held my head high while walking among numerous Americans and Japanese who were totally dressed.  It was mid-afternoon and many travelers were just arriving and registering at the hotel for the reception and the beginning of the international exchange. 

I made it to the bath area without incident, stored my slippers and yukata, and stepped into another room for an extensive scrub down, while sitting on a small stool.  After feeling cleaner than ever in my life I gently slipped into the bath (no splashing allowed) and realized I was the only American there.  Later I noticed some of my traveling partners, so I felt relieved that I hadn’t violated some rule and was in the wrong area.  The bath area was the size of most hotel pools, but was only about 18 inches deep, so when sitting on the bottom just your neck and head are above water.  I soaked for about 30 minutes in several areas of the pool and then reversed the above process to head back to my hotel room. 

The welcoming program was to begin at 4 PM and I was running short on time.  I did not realize that my body temperature was quite so elevated and as I was walking through the lobby I was perspiring profusely and had a rosy-red complexion.  Ms. Todoroki, who was making arrangements for the opening ceremony, spotted me and insisted I had to go talk to the projectionist about my presentation, which was part of the opening program.  Fortunately, after I protested, she gave me 15 minutes so I could cool down, get out of my yukata, and get properly dressed. 

I was to learn later from my roommate that the yukata like other forms of the kimono is considered appropriate dress and several persons actually wore them to breakfast after coming from the public bath.  That ended my first experience in a Japanese public bath.  I had several others while in Japan, but none had the excitement of the first.  A Japanese public bath is an experience that I highly recommend but be aware the water is very hot, and it is definitely not an experience for modest persons!!!